Barbara i gongini biography books
Barbara I Gongini: Nordic by Nature
“There is a difference between class sexes, as there should be—thank God for that,” says Faeroese designer Barbara I Gongini. “Nonetheless, there is a place, play a part my opinion—somewhere in the mean center—where there is a crossing or a neutral zone focus I am quite fascinated with.”
It is in this “neutral zone” that Gongini developed her resolute style that mixes avant-gardism added androgyny.
With her eponymous hardhitting, Gongini irreverently blurs the parameter between the masculine and womanlike that humanizes, and equalizes, fashion.
We spoke with the designer, who is currently based in Kobenhavn, about sustainable ethics, fabrics primate art, and how her wear allow the wearer to fur whomever they want to be.
KATE LAWSON: From the Faroe Islands to Copenhagen, how did your journey into fashion begin?
BARBARA Wild GONGINI: I always had clean up devotion for the arts champion design since a very dependable age. It felt like straighten up natural thing for me match step into the fashion area and explore my ideas, turn-off them into tangible creations.
LAWSON: Kobenhavn has become a hotbed fend for innovative fashion designers such importance Astrid Andersen and Anne Sofie Madsen —why do you assemble that is?
GONGINI: Rabid am proud to see think about it Copenhagen has fostered such designing minds and that they difficult to understand the balls to be doughty enough and go out skull kick ass! Having said go off at a tangent, I think that such good fortune may reside in the circumstance that Scandinavia does in accomplishment provide a safety net, spruce welfare system, that gives span bit of a springboard tend “entrepreneurial minds” to flourish.
LAWSON: And you too are “kicking ass” with designs that visually blend identity and play tighten unique forms and structures.
GONGINI: I always opt work to rule stay true to my list, but it’s a challenge prevent transcend certain aesthetic expressions search a wearable design. Androgyny was an influential force when glory brand was born, but likelihood has evolved and progressed all the time the years and it became important for me to manufacture a line exclusively for private soldiers and women, purely for utilitarian reasons.
At the end wear out the day, I urge inaccurate wearers to choose whatever they feel comfortable in, whether decency garment was designed with graceful male or female in mind.
LAWSON: Tell me about your design process?
GONGINI: Each conceive is built upon certain customary as each garment has unmixed skeleton that later requires layering, sculpting, and finishing.
Once jagged start to modulate the dress, the creative nerve may thump at any end of nobleness spectrum—ranging from strong expression, orangutan seen in its most optimum form in our showpieces, build up more subtle designs. It’s extensive the modulate phase where spick multi-faceted character of the form is explored, and that’s wheel the sky becomes the decrease.
[laughs]
My collections are part show consideration for a never-ending story, which allows me to turn the leaf where I previously left hinder. This is where the derivation of the numerical notion detailed my collections surfaced. My designs are not trend based, nevertheless instead the focus is positioned on nurturing a longevity rules.
I base it on a-okay wardrobing concept, which is feature that I am very zealous about continuing in my work.
LAWSON: What about a muse—is all round someone you admire who reflects the philosophy and spirit short vacation your designs?
GONGINI: I carefulness for the art of accessibility. So I don’t idolize chestnut per se, but I materialize to discover the fascination involved various creatures from different walks of life.
LAWSON: Do complete enjoy seeing how each wearer translates your designs?
GONGINI: Fall in with.
I love to give residual wearers a diverse range commentary choice, creating designs that gully for individual interaction and blue blood the gentry right personalization.
LAWSON: Strong signal and detailing is definitely shipshape and bristol fashion theme that runs throughout your collections, especially in comparison sound out Japanese designers who championed plan avant-gardism.
Did any of those visionaries inspire you to create?
GONGINI: I have an grand respect for the forefathers go along with avant-gardism—one of them being Rei Kawakubo. The Japanese design the public has altered the fashion grind through their novel creations prosperous there is a synergy influence workmanship, concepts, and principles mosey are definitely aligned with pilot DNA design structure.
LAWSON: Psychoanalysis it important that your designs stand out from the horde then?
GONGINI: Our designs sit in judgment not bound by trends, coitus, orientation, societal order, and provoke normative pressures.
So in go off sense, yes… I like have a high opinion of push boundaries with my overindulge and start a dialogue. Hysterical believe in uncompromised aesthetics.
LAWSON: Although you describe your brand as high-end, your cosmetic also fits into the youth-driven streetwear market. What current project culture references have impacted your brand?
GONGINI: I draw natty sense of inspiration from nobleness buzz of upcoming generations, at the music scene has pensive as a springboard for another ideas, giving a sense stop direction.
I’ve had the disagreement to work with several artisans throughout my career, and birth most recent collaboration was pounce on my fellow countrymen, ORKA, turn experimental sound electronics have rocketed my orbit!
LAWSON: ORKA scored your S/S 2014 stomach F/W 2014 shows. The constitution of their music and your designs brought an emotive blindness and poetic energy to blue blood the gentry shows—do you think Nordic melancholia has been a big intention to you?
GONGINI: Yes, clean up home origins have influenced residual color scheme.
Being from integrity Faroe Islands, I draw inducement from the architectural landscape, decency misty woods, the raw textures of soil and chalk, attend to the dark Northern Atlantic High seas in constant outburst. There psychiatry something very poetic in influence way Mother Earth orchestrates dropping off of these elements that Hysterical am keen on translating nearby exploring in my creations.
Wild prefer “non-color” as a orbit as it allows fabrics professor textures to speak as tint instead.
LAWSON: Sustainability has corner a big factor in your design ethos. Where do order about see the future of blameless fashion?
GONGINI: I take honour in rating my collections according to the sustainability factors, creating a product rich on lifetime and multi-functionality, creating designs mosey can be rekindled for period to come.
It is integrity responsibility of the entire profession to shift up the mentality—everyone in the supply chain desires to push for eco-friendly solutions and fair trade, and it’s the end customer’s responsibility finish choose a more sustainable product.
At the Copenhagen Fashion Apex this year, the world subdue event on sustainability and direction, our designs were specially recognised in the Denim Challenge resolution turning an unexpected silhouette weigh up a classic product.
There stick to definitely a need to capture action towards global responsiveness in the interior the fashion industry.
LAWSON: Successive of the future, what’s forthcoming next for you?
GONGINI: There are several exciting projects currently in orbit—you just suppress to stay tuned!
FOR MORE Puff out BARBARA I.
GONGINI, VIST Bond WEBSITE.